Видео

@@cmovezz3192 Thank you Sir! Love this feedback.

@@matt82654 Yes! One of the AMC videos has that info. I used a hydraulic press. There is a playlist for the AMC 20 on my channel.

@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thank you, going there now. Got the axle out and moving forward. Thank you for your helpful videos!

Glad you found the content helpful. My tub is still on its side and I am prepping to get it in final Epoxy and Bed Liner. Cheers to you and your project! Mike

@@omaralgarin4093 works as designed. I really like it.

@@johnbraboy8287 Glad you found it helpful. Mike

@@matt82654 Just after I confirmed that the spacer/race/bearing protrudes the house between the spec (0.020-0.080), at location 8:50 in the video, I only removed the Bearing. I left the Spacer and Seal in the housing. When I assembled the axle, what you see on the table (9:22) is the Bearing and Press Ring. The Press Ring is additional insurance that the Bearing stays attached n its place and the axle does not slide out after installation. Do not install the seal when checking the initial clearance. In the event that you do need to narrow the width of the spacer, the spacer will need to be removed and you will damage the seal.

@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thank you so much! That makes sense. I have been somewhat afraid of this job as I have never done one before. Your video's have helped me more than you will ever know as I have been restoring my 1981 CJ5.

Did you find the link in the description? If that is not working for you, you can email at UCanDoIt2Mike@gmail.com and I will send you the PDF file. Here is the link again that you can try. bit.ly/JeepCJ7HeaterBoxPartsDiagramNew

@@Fred-rv2tu Sounds like you have a cool project starting. They are rather simple vehicles to work on. Enjoy your project. Mike.

Purple goes to the Starter Solenoid.

I can tell by the way you setup and asked your question that you do have a great understanding of how this works. I believe, your only limiting factor is the gauge wire (the Red from the battery and the Pink from the Main Relay to the new set of three fuses) is required to run continuous load of ALL item connected. I believe with what you listed, you should be OK.

@@UCanDoIt2Mike do you think 10 gauge red wire from batt and 12 gauge pink wire from main relay to all 6 fuse or is better to run another 16 gauge Pink wire for the extra 3 fuses?

@@javierargumedo3 it does not need an ICM. The new engine’s PCM controls the ignition.

Glad you found it useful. It is a pretty simple and straight forward process. Have fun with it! Mike

@@UCanDoIt2Mike Yes Sir !! very useful info , Thank Ya Sir !!

@@cjc2936 Yes, I think anaerobic sealer is a great idea for the reason you mentioned. It will provide a great seal and can be cleaned up if disassembly is required. Cheers! Mike.

Hope you're having fun with your rebuild. Not sure if I follow the exact part you are looking for. My 1979 AMC 20 Drum Backing Plates, had a square hole in the plate where the emergency cable would penetrate. The emergency cable housing had a square rubber end that would snap into that square hole. The cable would then protrude into the drum assemble and connect to a lever. Companies that you could contact for some help would include: Quadratec, Crown, and Omix-Ada. Hope this helps. Mike

Just a standard 12V 40A automotive relay.

You may have to take your Axles to a machine shop and have the OD of the flange turned to allow the rotors to seat properly. Mine did not have a part number. They are from SSBC. You might find a website and more information there. Not a guarantee that you would not run into the same issue. Hope this helps. Mike

The fuel gauge is run from a wire coming directly from the Sending Unit that is located inside the fuel tank.

The key will enable the Fuel Pump Relay to have the potential to feed power to the Fuel Pump. The PCM, sends the actual trigger to the Fuel Pump Relay to provide that potential power of the relay to the pump.

My project did not include using this feature. I suggest referring to the Blue/Red or Green/Red PCM pin-out charts to find those wires. Cheers Mike.

SSBC (Stainless Steel Brake Corporation) Disc Brake Conversion Kit A130-02

Always great to hear that it is useful to someone. Thanks for the feedback. Have fun with your project. Mike

@@UCanDoIt2Mike building my 4th Lamborghini Replica on my channel @lambobuilder. Will definitely credit you for wiring assistance when I post

Thank you! That was a fun project. Should be good to go for another lifetime. Mike

The Yellow is coming from a Relay and goes directly to the positive side of your fuel pump. That Yellow wire is already a fused circuit unit due to the source of the orange wire. If you connect the yellow wire from a fuse to the fuel pump…. The fuel pump will run constantly. The relay is it’s on/off switch.

How did it work for you? I think it does a great job removing dirt and sediment. Cheers…. Mike

@@UCanDoIt2Mike I haven't used it yet but I know it's going to work. I've taken a lot of time doing research. I love your videos I've been watching them to do research for my 1984 Jeep Scrambler truck that needs a lot of work. I appreciate all the work you put into your videos.

Assuming you talking about buying a completed harness from a supplier or doing the work myself again. It was extremely easy. I doubt, I would do it again myself. Mike.

Crown from Quadratec Left J5353238 Right J3233904

@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks!

@@UCanDoIt2Mike Can you recheck the part# please. I got the j5353238 in and it’s the cable from the foot pedal back

To be honest, I am not there yet. Working on my Tub and then will be assembling the drivetrain.

​@@UCanDoIt2Mike cool, no worries 👍

I do not have that Race part number that you are looking for. If you have the Bearing number, you can often look for that combination and determine the matching Race number.

@UCanDoIt2Mike Thx for the response. The problem was a mispackaged bearing&race. Crown sent me another but still not the correct parts. 👍 I found out NOT ALL Dana 300's are equal 😮 The correct floating race for mine is 15250, and 15118 bearing. (after much digging) Thx.

You need to study the implementation of "Shims". I believe in this case, for the Output Shaft Shims.... The "More" shims you use, the further apart you are restricting the bearing from closing in on each other. I believe you need to add shims. Mike

Found the problem was not the shims in the end but the bottom bearing for some bizarre reason was not seated 100%. 👍🏻

​@@UCanDoIt2Mikefound the problem for front output floating race setup. Crown mispackaged the bearing & race. The correct set (Timken) is HM88610(race) 02872(bearing)

This is not a job for everyone. I enjoyed it as I learned how it is all done and enjoyed that process. This type of work would never interest me as a career. But there are guys out there that really love it. There is room to mess it up, so I would recommend getting a recommendation or looking for reviews of the shop you plan to engage with. Cheers! Mike

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching. Mike

I had a hard time also finding the Vent Valve details. It is as if no one wants to commit to a recommendation for liability purposes. Have fun with yours. Mike.

Thank you for the great feedback. Hope it helps you with your project. Mike.

Thanks for sharing that information. I believe my drivers rear had a little shield that I took off and had no ideas what or why it was there. in that same area was the a Roll-over valve like you mentioned. These are really fun and somewhat simple vehicles. Love the fact that you have made all of the upgrades to new models. Cheers.... Mike

Place the correct Allen tool into the screw and “shock” it with a slight hammer blow. Also add a penetrating oil

@@UCanDoIt2Mike I even put a small flame to it, still nothing. Will try again this morning, it went in so it has to come out right? Lol

@UCanDoIt2Mike a friend of mine has a tool that turns the head on impact with the hammer. Should solve it🙏

Thank you Sir! Mike

Sorry for the late response. I should have added that to the diagram. If you have downloaded my free diagram OR find a clear image of it in the video, here are the Relay Pin numbers per the orientation of my diagram. LEFT (30), TOP (86), BOTTOM (85), and RIGHT (87) This should help. Mike

Thank you Sir. As CJ owners, it’s our responsibility to keep them running and on the road. Still trying to get mine assembled and looking forward to cruising around in it like the old days. I’ve owned this Jeep for 34 years. Thanks…. Mike

Welcome aboard Sir. Cheers to you. Mike.

Yes. I cleaned up and painted the old one and reused it. The bolt is new as it is a one time use bolt.

@@UCanDoIt2Mike im building my lq4 and im thinking of using the old harmonic balancer like you did. you havent had any problems?

Thank you Bobby! Mike

Thank you Sir!

@@UCanDoIt2Mike 😁👍🏻

Thanks for the feedback! Mike

Several simple repairs and upgrades that should make these heater boxes work better for us. Cheers and have fun tackling yours! Mike

These ole Jeeps are fun to work on. Great idea on the extra bracket. Once I get my Tub Complete. I will be assembling the Frame and chassis. At that point, I will need to start thinking about rear bumper mounting. Cool stuff! Mike

@@UCanDoIt2Mike I did the heavy brackets for strength with the bumper attachment and the jeep being lifted with a dropped trailer receiver hitch.

Hey Bob... I do remember. I really liked the Cart you built to wheel your tub around. The land that I'm on is slanted, so that was not an option for me. I was jealous about that one. I am not looking forward to Raptor Lining this in my working space. Cheers! Mike

Many thanks!!! Trying to get where I can start the assembly process!!!! Mike